Friday, January 31, 2020

CITY DESTINATION: Fabulous Drinks from the nightly Buenos Aires

By Jorge Jefferds January 31, 2020

Crawling around the obelisk, struggling with the first tango steps, and sailing on La Plata River at sunset are not complete without stepping on one of these exquisite Buenos Aires bars. If you want to return home telling millions of stories about their flavors, do not skip the Bonaerense streets. The thirst for unique cocktails can embezzle anyone's curiosity, especially those who have never been in Buenos Aires before. Take a look about the most sophisticated offers by this beautiful city at night.

Doppelgänger is a darkened cove painted in deep shades of green and red. It may be the best place in town to order classic cocktails with a menu enlisting about 100 of them served in finely cool crystal glasses. Of course, “classic” can mean something different here. Take the Old-Fashioned, the bar’s biggest seller. As with pizza, locals make this international staple their own way. A mixture of sugar and plenty of Angostura bitters is muddled at the bottom of the glass, then swirled about until it coats the entire inside. At Doppelgänger, an orange slice is then lightly muddled at the bottom. This is covered with ice, and then bourbon. The result is basically an Old-Fashioned crusta, an old genre of cocktail that involves a sugar rim. The first sip is strong. You’ll want the spoon they serve it with to stir the drink and integrate that sugar coating into the spirit. The Gibson is a good bet here, too, as it is the favorite of the owner, Guillermo Blumenkamp. They prepare a dry version with little vermouth and three onions. The popular Bonaerense culture says that, if someone orders one, Mr. Blumenkamp will take one, too.
Advertisement



Image result for verne cocktail clubFederico Cuco is the owner of Verne Cocktail Club, which is named after the author Jules Verne. He is a veteran bartender and an amateur cocktail historian. Mr. Cuco can serve you one of his house originals, such as the smoky Opium Old-Fashioned, or he can tell you about Buenos Aires’ rich mixological history, which includes mid-20th-century bartender celebrities like Santiago Policastro (1912-2010). Famous for his nickname “Pichin,” Policastro cut a big enough figure to appear on television and publish a book, “Tragos Magicos” (or “Magical Drinks”). Mr. Cuco was behind a campaign a decade and a half ago to “Save the Clarito,” the Clarito being a forgotten dry Martini riff by Pichin. It worked. You can order a Clarito anywhere in the city now. (The chief difference between the original Clarito and a Martini was a sugar rim. That touch, gratefully, has since been dropped.)If you ask for other historical Buenos Aires cocktails, there’s a good chance Mr. Cuco will know how to prepare them. Likewise, he is a committed advocate of local heritage brands like Amargo Obrero, a mild regional amaro, and Hesperidina, an orange liqueur that, in 1876, became Argentina’s first patented product. Oddly enough, Hesperidina was created by Melville Sewell Bagley, an immigrant from Maine.

Image result for floreria atlanticoFloreria Atlantico is Buenos Aires’ most famous cocktail bar, a reputation it may have secured solely through the energies of its owner, Renato Giovannoni, a charismatic man who knows how to fill up a room. He also knows how to paint up a room; the pictures of sea monsters on the walls are his creations. Mr. Giovannoni describes his bar as being a tribute to the multi ethnic history of the city’s population. Fittingly, the menu is divided by national influence, with sections dedicated to Spain (sherry drinks), Poland (vodka) and England (gin, Scotch). The bar’s signature drink is, naturally, a Negroni variation, but the dizzyingly complex Balestrini Negroni tells a distinctly Argentinian story. The Campari is locally distilled. The gin, Principe de los Apóstoles, comes from Mr. Giovannoni's personal palate, boasting botanical specimens such as yerba mate (a South American herbal tea) and eucalyptus. Averna amaro replaces the usual vermouth. A dash of seawater from the actual Atlantic Ocean provides a saline accent. (The bar is called Atlantico, after all.) This is all infused with eucalyptus smoke and garnished with pine nuts. The eucalyptus branches could conceivably have been fetched from the flower shop upstairs, which serves as a false front for the bar.

Image result for presidente bar buenos airesIt is evident that money finds a sophisticated way into the Buenos Aires bar scene upon entering the chic Presidente, which opened a couple of years ago. The Presidente is extravagantly appointed, with chandeliers, high ceilings, a library-like private bar in the back and staff members who look like models. On the wall, there is a painting that portrays 19th-century American bartender Harry Johnson, who seems to be the bar’s spiritual guide, according to some folks. A LED counter above the bar tracks the number of Negronis sold. It’s a trick borrowed from Dry Martini, a Barcelona bar that depicts this count in a similar format. Certainly, you might choose the Milano Torino instead, a gin-less predecessor of the Negroni, which is just as good. And the Buenos Aires Zombie makes an impression, arriving in a tall, white, custom tiki mug meant to resemble the Obelisco de Buenos Aires, an inescapable city landmark.

Image result for la fuerza vermuteriaBuenos Aires’ longstanding aperitif tradition extends to vermouth. Cinzano, the Italian vermouth company, has been a big presence here since the late 1800s; Argentina is, in fact, the top consumer of Cinzano in the world. La Fuerza — which was opened by Julián Díaz, a prominent local bar owner, the writer Martín Auzmendi and two partners, occupying a bright, cheery corner storefront — offers a traditional, yet fresh approach to the aperitif ritual. It is a vermouth bar, or vermutería, a sort of bar that was once common in Argentina, but is now scarce. La Fuerza sets itself apart in that makes its own vermouth, using wines distilled in Mendoza and flavored with botanical specimens handpicked around the Andes foothills. The owners tout it as the first vermouth to ever be produced in the Andean region. There’s a rojo and a bianco and both are on tap. Try them by themselves over ice with a twist; or, as porteños sometimes do, pair the rojo with fernet, and the bianco with Campari. The concise food menu has everything you’d ever want to nibble on while sipping a vermouth, including various olives, an assortment of cheese, fries, local salame from Tandil, lupin beans and pallares, which are like lima beans.

Image result for bourbon brunch and beerAmerican whiskey presents a particular challenge to the city’s drink makers. Few bourbons are exported here; Wild Turkey was recently added to a short list that includes Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark and Evan Williams. And there is no rye at all. Flying in the face of these privations is Bourbon Brunch & Beer, an American-style honky-tonk. Yankee touches include a picture of Johnny Cash on the wall and a food menu that features hot dogs, mac ‘n’ cheese and bagels. Its casual-bar cred is further proven through its attitude toward that fernet and Coke habit, a drink that is shunned by some mixologists as too common, but heartily embraced here. (The Fernet Branca made in Argentina, by the way, is considerably drier and more astringent than the Italian version, which is what the U.S. gets. So the pairing with the sweet Coca-Cola makes more sense.) Bourbon Brunch & Beer was created by the same folks who own the over-the-top Uptown. The owner told me he wanted to open a more relaxed bar, a place to hang out. The back bar is lined with dozens of bourbon brands that the owner smuggled back from trips to the United States, and intends to sell by the glass. When asked how that was possible, legally, he shrugged. “It’s Buenos Aires,” he replied.


  
https://www.amazon.com/Paradise-Ville-Sanctuary-Death-Book-1-ebook/dp/B00NJVZ7YG
Advertisement
https://www.aa.com/homePage.do
Advertisement

Friday, May 24, 2019

ADVENTURE DESTINATION: Darwin Area Natural Reserves and Pools


By Jorge Jefferds May 24, 2019

Even when winter dominates the southern hemisphere this time of the year, Australia is a favorite destination all through the four seasons. The north of the country attains higher temperatures while the south copes with wintery days. One of the places, where you can travel to and still experience summer weather is Darwin.
The capital of Australia's Northern Territory and a former frontier outpost, Darwin is also a gateway to the massive Kakadu National Park. Its popular waterfront area has several beaches and green areas like Bicentennial Park. Furthermore, near the water stands the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, displaying Southeast Asian and Pacific art, plus a pearling lugger and other seafaring vessels.
Advertisement
If you fly out of North America, the carriers that can take you to Darwin connecting in Sydney are American Airlines, Quantas, and Emirates. On average, the temperature has been 74 degrees during the last ten days. If you decide to stay in the city area, your accommodation options are great. Their rates fluctuate between $55 and $187 near the oceanfront.
Once you are good with your hotel reservations, your next step is to get around. A taxi can take you to downtown for about $25 or $30 in case that you are undecided about starting with a car rental. Be aware that a $4 toll has to be paid by you and not by the driver once you exit the airport, though.
Lake Alexander
If you want to start driving all over from the airport, the car rental counters are located at the Arrivals Hall near baggage collection on the ground floor. Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service provides a convenient and reliable service to and from the terminals and all city accommodation locations. The service operates from the terminal doorstep.
Kakadu National Park
Whoever said you can’t swim in Darwin couldn’t have been more wrong. On top of four public swimming pools and four dry-season patrolled beaches within 15 minutes of the CBD, Darwin and the surrounding area offers plenty of excellent – and some quite unique – swimming opportunities. 
Crocosaurus Cove
Start at the chic Darwin Waterfront, where you can grab a boogie board and ride the swell in the Wave Pool or hit the man-made beach at the Recreation Lagoon, where nets protect swimmers from marine stingers.
Families should make a beeline for Lake Alexander in the beautiful East Point Reserve. Filled with filtered seawater, the lake provides safe swimming in natural surroundings with picnic areas and playgrounds.
Litchfield National Park
Kids of all ages love splashing about at Leanyer or Palmerston Water Parks, with huge waterslides, swimming pools and fantastic water playground with fountains, canons and a huge bucket that slowly fills and douses the playground when it overflows.
Pack your bathers when you visit Crocosaurus Cove in Darwin city. After learning all about crocodiles above water level you can eyeball one below it in the famous Cage of Death, a Perspex box that’s lowered into the monstrous reptile’s pool.
Wagai Beach
Pack a picnic or some meat to barbecue and head to Berry Springs Nature Park, a hugely popular day trip an hour from Darwin. Swim from one pool to the next via a pretty pandanus-lined creek and take your goggles to spot small fish and other aquatic life that live in the clear pools.
Spend a day experiencing this region’s best-known natural swimming pools at Litchfield National Park, an hour and a half from Darwin. Glide through the clear pools of Wangi and Florence Falls to thundering double waterfalls, soak in the tired cascades at Buley Rockhole or jump in a four-wheel drive to experience the lesser-known Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek).
Berry Springs
Wagait Beach is a locality approximately 8 km west of Darwin, on the opposite side of the harbor. It makes up the Wagait Shire local government area. Wagait Beach is not part of Darwin, but many of its residents use the Mandorah ferry to travel to work in Darwin. Wagait Beach is on the north coast of the Cox Peninsula, which forms the western side of Darwin Harbour. It is part of the Hundred of Bray, as surveyed by George Goyder in 1869-70. "Wagait" (also spelled "Waugite") is a local Aboriginal language word meaning beach or salt water country.
Bring lots of sun block lotion to protect yourself and family or friends. Winter in Darwin, Australia, might invade you with tons of sun rays.

  
https://www.amazon.com/Paradise-Ville-Sanctuary-Death-Book-1-ebook/dp/B00NJVZ7YG
Advertisement
https://www.aa.com/homePage.do
Advertisement