RESTAURANT DESTINATION: Mr. and Mrs. Bund, a French Concept in Shanghai

RESTAURANT DESTINATION: Mr. and Mrs. Bund, a French Concept in Shanghai  

By Jorge Jefferds September 17, 2015

September 24^th is the date you have to book in one of the most exclusive restaurants of Shanghai. The event is called “Bingo Night Fever.” For those human owls, Mr. and Mrs. Bund offers a Late Night Dinner every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, from 11pm until the last order taken at 2am. The promotion invites to participate in a nibble, a tipple, and perhaps even some dance.

The owner is a French Chef. His name is Paul Pairet. He describes his place as contemporary, relaxed, and not stuffy. Without sacrificing the chic touch, they target populist French favorites in a family-styled service, recasting for a modern table.

“We riff on classical comfort cuisine,” Paired recalls. “And life's too short to drink wine you don't like.”

But finding your personal crank-turners isn't always easy; wine lists can be intimidating. They get that, and are overhauling the norm. Enabled by the latest in wine service technology, Mr. & Mrs. Bund offers 32 lovingly picked wines "by the glass" – each in three sizes – so you can sip, savor (and switch) as you please, when you please. Spoiled by choice? It's a good thing.

Main Entrance to the Restaurant

While their approach to wine may be in a freer spirit, the cocktails in the menu are greatly mixed with classics from the house specials. Authentic, gorgeous, and solid – those drinks are another perfect way to get spoiled.

Chef Paul Pairet is a culinary egalitarian. Whether using tinned sardines to produce sophisticated, avant-garde fine dining, or the simplest of French and global dishes, he approaches both with an equal lack of prejudice and unbiased opinion.
Pairet came to Shanghai in 2005 to open Jade on 36 at the Pudong Shangri-La. In three short years, he staked out an international reputation for his highly personal and completely original cuisine: often exaggerated, highly technical plays on texture, temperature, and preconceived expectations. 

Beef Short Rib with Teriyaki Sauce

Mr. & Mrs. Bund is a different expression of Paul's passion. The theme here is simplicity and popularity, a democratic flourish that embraces the foods of the world. Viewed casually, Mr. & Mrs. Bund's populist formula seems a radical departure from the sophisticated, avant-garde cuisine, for which Pairet has been known. But at its heart is a unique democracy of vision, an undercurrent that unites the two. Pairet is adamant about the equality of ingredients, looking at them for what they are, devoid of context, as opposed to what they might be, an approach he terms "the newborn's eye". He insists that a canned sardine is not in any way "worse" than a fresh one, nor are truffles intrinsically more suited to fine dining than Coca-Cola. All of them can be found in his cooking, at various occasions.
In the same spirit, his daring avant-gardism is no "better" than the populist simplicity of Mr. & Mrs. Bund. In one, the technical theater is on the plate; in the other, it is a means to an end, a new approach that results in inspired renditions of old favorites, perhaps with a twist.

Chilean Black Cod

Some of the dishes that impress the finest palate are the Chilean black cod and the Hainan seabass.

The Chilean black cod is served in three different stylish choices: in heat proof bag with Cantonese sauce, sauté in lemon with olive oil, or lightly marinated with mashed potatoes. The Hainan seabass is steamed with olive oil, lemon, soy, ginger, and basil.

Frog legs in garlic parsley is a traditional Chinese recipe Mr. & Mrs. Bund could not leave absent from their cuisine.  

Seared turbot came from the North Atlantic, and is served sauté in lemon with croutons, asiate, and capers.

Long short rib Teriyaki roasted, and in orange reduction.

There is a great selection of tarts, gateaux, homemade ice cream, sorbets, and entremets.
Mr. and Mrs. Bund is located on the sixth floor of an Art Deco building overlooking the Huangpu River.