Wednesday, March 23, 2022

ART ADVENTURE: The Naples National Archeological Museum



By Jorge R. Jefferds March 24, 2022

Naples is remarkable for its fame in international cuisine and its association with Pizza. However, many people worldwide ignore how cardinal this metropolis has been due to the support in preserving valuable pieces of the Vesuvian era.

Records of the origin of the collection of these pieces relate it to the figure of Charles of Bourbon. He was on the throne of the Kingdom of Naples in 1734. His cultural policy led him to promote the exploration of the Vesuvian cities buried by the eruption of 79 AD. This process began in 1738 in Herculaneum, then in 1748 in Pompeii. Likewise, he oversaw the construction of a Farnesian Museum in the city, transferring part of the rich collection inherited from his mother Elisabetta Farnese from the residences of Rome and Parma.
The Museum Facade
At the beginning of its life, the local authorities used the building as a cavalry barracks in 1585. From 1616 to 1777, it was the seat of the University of Naples. During the 19th century, after it became a museum, it suffered many changes to the main structure.

The museum hosts extensive collections of Greek and Roman antiquities. Their core is the Farnese Collection, which includes engraved gems. Remarkable are the Farnese Cup, a Ptolemaic bowl made of sardonyx agate and the most famous piece in the "Treasure of the Magnificent," founded upon gems collected by Cosimo de' Medici and Lorenzo il Magnifico in the 15th century and the Farnese Marbles. Among the notable works found in the museum are the Herculaneum papyri, carbonized by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, discovered after 1752 in Villa of the Papyri.
Interiors
A substantial part of the museum's classical sculpture collection comes from the Farnese Marbles. Most importantly, they include Roman copies of classical Greek sculpture, which are in many cases the only surviving indications of what the lost works by ancient Greek sculptors such as Calamis, Kritios, and Nesiotes seemed to have been. The Museo de Capodimonte welcomed the transfer of many of these works in recent years, especially the larger ones, for their display.

The museum houses a splendid collection of ancient Roman bronzes from the Villa of the Papyri. These include the Seated Hermes, a sprawling Drunken Satyr, a bust of Thespis, another variously identified as Seneca or Hesiod, and a pair of exceptionally lively runners.
The Bronze Runners
The museum's Mosaic Collection includes several renowned mosaics recovered from the ruins of Pompeii and the other Vesuvian cities. The Alexander Mosaic, dating from circa 100 BC, originally from the House of the Faun in Pompeii, is an astonishing piece worth the observation. It depicts a battle between the armies of Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia. Another mosaic found is one of the gladiatorial fighters depicted in a mosaic found from the Villa of the Figured Capitals in Pompeii.

With 2,500 objects, the museum has one of the largest collections of Egyptian artifacts in Italy after the Turin, Florence, and Bologna ones. It is made up primarily of works from two private collections, assembled by Cardinal Stefano Borgia in the second half of the 18th century, and Picchianti in the first years of the 19th. In the recent rearrangement of the galleries, the two nuclei have been exhibited separately, while in the connecting room other items are on display, including Egyptian and "pseudo-Egyptian" artifacts from Pompeii and other Campanian sites. In its new layout, the collection provides both an important record of Egyptian civilization from the Old Kingdom (2700-2200 B.C.) up to the Ptolemaic-Roman era.
Erotic Artifacts
The Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto) (Gabbinete) or Secret Room is the name the Bourbon Monarchy gave the private rooms in which they held their fairly extensive collection of erotic or sexual items, mostly deriving from excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Only persons of mature age and known morals gained permission to visit the exhibition. The rooms were also called Cabinets of matters reserved or obscene or pornographic. After the revolution of 1848, the government of the monarchy even proposed the destruction of objects, fearful of the implications of their ownership, which would tarnish the monarchy with lasciviousness. Easy access to the collection for the then-director of the Royal Bourbon Museum terminated, providing the entrance door with three different locks, whose keys were held respectively by the Director of the Museum, the Museum Controller, and the Palace Butler. The highlight of the censorship occurred in 1851 when even nude Venus statues were locked up, and the entrance walled up in the hope that the collection would vanish from memory.
Pompeii Statues
In September 1860, when the forces of Garibaldi occupied Naples, he ordered to place the collection under exhibition for the general public. Since the Royal Butler was no longer available, they broke into it. Limiting viewership and censorship have always been part of the history of this particular art compendium. Censorship returned during the era of the Kingdom of Italy and peaked during the Fascist period when visitors to the rooms needed the permission of the Minister of National Education in Rome. Censorship persisted in the postwar period up to 1967, abating only after 1971 when the Ministry received the new rules to regulate requests for visits and access to the section. Completely rebuilt a few years ago with all of the new criteria, the collection finally flourished to the public eye in April 2000. Visitors under the age of 14 can tour the exhibit only with an adult.

The museum is open from 9 am to 7 pm every day, except Tuesdays. For information about special exhibitions and events, visit https://mann-napoli.it/. There is an option to read the website in English as well.
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Sunday, March 13, 2022

ADVENTURE DESTINATION: The Path of the Gods, between History and Nature

By Jorge R. Jefferds March 13, 2022

The Path of the Gods is a natural trail about 9 kilometers long located inside the Amalfi coast, ideal for hiking and trekking. It starts in Agerola and ends in Positano, a walk immersed in the most uncontaminated nature that lasts 7 hours.
In recent years, the Path of the Gods has attained fame thanks to its skyline, a feature recognized as the most evocative and famous worldwide. Crossing the Amalfi Coast of the rich Mediterranean Scrub, vineyards act as environmental caretakers, growing along the ridge of the Lattari mountains that plunge into the blue sea of ​​the coast from which it is possible to see the island of Capri.
The Amalfi Coast
The name of the path derives from historical facts and legends, according to which the Greek gods passed right there to save Ulysses from the sirens that governed the island of Li Galli. The writer Italo Calvino described this magnificence as "a road suspended over the magical gulf of the 'Sirens' still plowed today by memory and myth." The same sentence flourishes on ceramic tiles located at the very beginning of the Path of the Gods.
The beauty of this path also lies in the absolute lack of human influence. The place is as mother nature conceived it and subsequently shaped it over the centuries. The hand of man can only exhibit its presence by the setting of protective barriers (in some points), and excellent signs alongside the route.
A Valley with Mediterranean Scrub
Not everyone knows that there are two paths to choose from, the Path of the Gods in "high" and "low", whose names derive from the height at which the path develops. In the first case, the high path starts from Bomerano (Agerola) and ends in Santa Maria Del Castello and is slightly more challenging due to the presence of many uphill stretches, while the low path is the one that crosses Nocelle, and is less demanding, advisable for people who are advanced in age or who are not they want to get very tired.
The path starts in a fraction of Agerola (Bomerano) ending in the upper part of Positano (Nocelle). This nature trail measures a length of about 10 kilometers (round trip). The complete excursion takes about 7 hours, a period that can vary according to the speed of the pace and the number of breaks that take place during the journey.
Vallone Porto Hiking Path
Across the entire route, structures give protection generously to the most challenging and inaccessible points. Panoramic terraces allow the contemplation of the Faraglioni in the Capri Island, Punta Penna, the Li Galli island, and the Lattari Mountains. Comfortable wooden benches enable the tired to rest and recover energy by the refreshment of water and some snacks. Likewise, there are several sources of fresh and drinkable water, a real boon when the decision is to visit this place in the summer, and when the sun is scorching.
As previously specified, the path has a total length of 10 square kilometers, but most tourists only make the outward journey, that is, starting in Bomerano (Agerola) and arriving in Nocelle (Positano). Retracing the path backward would not have much sense given all its beauties already admired on the way.
Scenic View of Positano at Sunset
So once reached the destination, how is it possible to return to the starting point?
At the end of the path, the return from Positano is possible by public or private bus. Alternatively, there is a local ferry. Regardless of the means chosen, visitors arrive in Amalfi, from where they will need to take a shuttle bus that will drive them back to the point of origin in Bomerano (Agerola). It is a fairly long return (also due to the traffic normally encountered on holidays through the coast), and it is necessary to allow at least 3 hours to complete it.
Once again, the trip takes about 7 hours. Therefore, it is reasonable to leave in the morning, not too late. Being there around 9 am would allow a safe return by 16 in the afternoon.
An aspect that visitors should not overlook is the time of the year preferred for a hike on this trail. In the summer, days have more hours of light. On the contrary, in the less hot months such as October, March, and April, available daylight hours are fewer. Therefore, this aspect must be taken into consideration to avoid returning from the path with little sunlight.
Capri Island
The path is not extremely demanding, but at the same time, it still requires a minimum of physical fitness suitable for walking for about 10 kilometers. The recommended clothing, especially during the warmer months, is light. If allergic to various plants or herbs, the recommendation is to wear knee-length trousers or long trousers.
Throughout the Path of the Gods, there are places worth the attention. Among them, the Grotta Biscotto, the Rock Villages, and the "Pistillo " are points of prominent sightseeing.
Starting from Bomerano (the beginning of the Path) the first place worth a visit is a cavity located at 528 meters above sea level called Grotta del Biscotto. There are several cliffs and precipices that at some points can reach up to 200 meters in height, here the panorama is breathtaking precisely because of the particularity of the rocky stretch.
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Upon the arrival to the "Grotta del Biscotto", it is possible to admire the ancient settlements that are defined as real " Rock Villages." These villages have a peculiar construction style attached directly to the rock, though some of these rocky villages are at the peaks of the aforementioned drift. They almost seem suspended. According to the guides, these settlements date back to the period of the Saracen raids.
Finally, another well-known point of the path is the so-called "Pistillo” a spur of rock at the base of which rises a bristly limestone spire renamed "pistil," a point where visitors can immortalize it in photos and their videos.

Tuesday, March 1, 2022

ART DESTINATION: 2022 Italy Mercanteinfiera Antique Show

By Jorge R. Jefferds March 2, 2022

Located four hours north of Rome, in the Northern corner of Italy, Parma is an architectural-style city famous for its Etruscan influence. Most notably, the metropolis is well-known for its worldwide recognized antique show, which was resurrected from the ashes spread by Covid-19 and it is present to introduce its 2022 version of the Mercanteinfiera Spring 2022.

The event is dedicated to all kinds of antiques, modernism, and collectibles, whose presentation will take place from March 12th to 20th, 2022. Only two days are considered to be reserved for the sector operators (March 11th, and 12th, respectively).

The comeback of the spring edition represents a return to normality for international buyers and visitors who have always been the pride of this international fair.

Thousands of pieces of different styles will be in the disposition of all antique lovers and auctioneers. Likewise, they will be able to check market trends, discover new collecting sectors and combine business with a pleasant stay in the UNESCO Capital of Gastronomy, also a city of music and art.

During Mercanteinfiera Spring 2022, visitors are going to acquire the opportunity to experience the variety of items that have characterized the show for almost forty years, and enjoy an authentic journey through time surrounded by furniture, works of art, jewelry, and vintage.
There will be more than a thousand exhibitors, from all European antiquarian squares, exhibiting with pride their discoveries to tens of thousands of professional visitors, collectors, and lovers of memory.

Lots and lots of precious and bizarre items or simply “rediscoveries of our recent past” will gather only for a few weeks. The organizers already announced a second mega show that will take place in the Fall of 2022 (dates to be confirmed).
To inaugurate the spring edition, two collateral exhibitions entitled "The Ships Were Leaving: Home Sweet Home America," and "Olivetti #StoriadiInnovation" will take most of the podium. Different stories that have, however, the dimensions of big dreams: one related to the over 14 million Italians who embarked for the New World at the beginning of the century: the other is about a man, Adriano Olivetti, who aspired to an economic-industrial model based on solidarity, justice, and humanity.

Tickets are available online on the website www.mercanteinfire.it. The show will be performed between the hours of 10 am to 7 pm. There are clear Covid-19 guidelines, and both visitors and exhibitors are highly encouraged to read before planning their participation in the exhibit.
Getting to the Mercanteinfiera Spring 2022 fair takes just an hour or so from Milan, Bologna, and Verona by car through the motorway exit (A1). Florence, Padua, Turin, and Genoa a little more. The Parma ring road allows participants to quickly reach every point of the city. In this way, the Parma exhibition center can also be reached quickly from the spa towns of Salsomaggiore and Tabiano. The complex also has over 9,000 parking spaces and the daily fee will be about $8.
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