Saturday, May 18, 2019

CITY DESTINATION: Barcelona in Depth Part I


By Jorge Jefferds May 18, 2019

What's over here and a couple of streets over there? Wherever you are in Barcelona, there's always something to see nearby around the neighborhood or district: jewels of home-grown Catalan architecture, modernism, and contemporary architecture, markets that are a treat for the senses, treasures of the ancient Roman and medieval city, parks where you can unwind … And the best thing of all is, you don't have to be a great explorer to find and discover all of Barcelona’s neighborhoods.
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Ciutat Vella, the old town, is the historic nucleus of Barcelona and covers a small area of some 500 hectares. When you discover Ciutat Vella, you'll discover the origins of Barcelona. Until the mid-19th century, the city was hemmed in by its medieval walls which roughly followed the Avinguda Paral·lel, Ronda de Sant Pau, Ronda de Sant Antoni, Carrer de Pelai, Passeig de Lluís Companys and Parc de la Ciutadella.
Eixample
Modern Barcelona was born with the Eixample, a district stretching from the Plaça d'Espanya almost as far as the river Besòs. Its continuous grid layout connected the old town (the present-day district of Ciutat Vella) with the other towns and villages on the Barcelona plain (Gràcia, Sants, Sant Martí de Provençals, Sant Andreu, Sarrià, etc.), which later became Barcelona neighborhoods. The Eixample is the result of one of the most splendid periods in the city's history: a time when it was establishing its position as the economic powerhouse of Catalonia and Spain in the mid-19th century. This economic growth was reflected in the expansion of the city when the Madrid government lifted the ban it had imposed since 1714 on building outside the city walls, following the victory of the Bourbon dynasty in the War of the Spanish Succession (Barcelona had supported the House of Hapsburg).
Gracia
Formerly a separate village, Gràcia has now been absorbed within Barcelona's urban boundaries. It still retains its own unique personality and aged customs among its network of small, narrow bustling streets and numerous squares where locals meet. Despite its humble origins, Gràcia's population has always been enlightened; it still has an active political and social life and an extensive network of deeply rooted civic, cultural, sporting and artistic institutions. In the early 19th century, Gràcia was a village that spread northwards from just outside the old walled city of Barcelona towards the Collserola Massif. Its origins date back to centuries earlier, when settlements were established around a Franciscan convent (the convent of Jesus) and housing a community of Barefoot Carmelites (Our Lady of Grace). In 1897, Barcelona, which was in the throes of large-scale expansion with the construction of its Eixample district, absorbed Gràcia and other surrounding villages becoming one of the city's new neighborhoods.
Horta-Guinardo
Horta-Guinardó is Barcelona's third largest district located in the north-east of the city, between the districts of Gràcia and Nou Barris. Uneven landform consisting of mountains, hills and valleys features the area’s best essence. Its profusion of green spaces makes it one of the most attractive places for those in search of peace, dreams, and stillness in the open air. The history of Horta-Guinardó can be traced back to 965 AD, and the old valley of Horta, which is now known as the Vall d'Hebrón. This is where the village of the same name was founded. Like Gràcia, Sants, Sant Martí, and other villages around the city, Horta was annexed to Barcelona, but somewhat later, in 1904. It was a mainly rural area and wasn't developed until the 1950s when people from Catalonia and the rest of Spain came to the city in search of work and definitive settlement.
Les Corts
The district of Les Corts spans the western half of the Avinguda Diagonal, the part furthest away from the sea. It was formerly a village of the same name, which, like Gràcia, Sants and Sant Martí, was annexed by Barcelona during the late 19th century. Streams that flowed down from Collserola irrigated the entire area. It was an agricultural settlement and has now become a residential area with some of the city's most important shopping centers and major sporting venues and cultural attractions. However, it still has a great amount of still green areas, including parks and the nearby Collserola Massif.
A Monastery in Pedralbes
The iconic FC Barcelona Stadium, Camp Nou, has stood proudly since 1957 on the southern side of the Diagonal. The stadium tour includes a visit to one of the most popular museums among tourists and locals: the FC Barcelona Museum, which opened in 1984 and was completely refurbished in 2011. Formerly the residence of the king and queen of Spain when they visited Barcelona, the Palau Reial de Pedralbes stands on the north side of the Diagonal, in the Pedralbes neighborhood. The gatehouses of the Güell Estate are located at the north end of the palace grounds by the Avinguda de Pedralbes. This extraordinary work by Antoni Gaudí is renowned for its gate in the shape of a dragon. And at the far end of the neighborhood, almost in the foothills of the massif, you'll find the majestic Pedralbes Monastery, which was founded in the 14th century. As a fine example of pure Gothic architecture, it has the largest cloisters in Europe of this style.
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